Setouchi Islands
There are thousands of islands scattered across the Seto Inland Sea. The Setouchi Triennale, first held in 2010, is a contemporary art festival held once every three years on several islands and around the ports in the Seto Inland Sea. One of the festival’s main goals is to revitalize these islands, which are suffering from depopulation.
In order to save time and also to combine my itinerary to Miyajima and Kurashiki, we spent two nights on Naoshima during my art triennale trip. The upside was we got to experience the tranquil atmosphere on the island at night.
The best route in the Benesse House Area, where all the buildings were designed by well known architect Tadao Ando starts with a pleasant walk from Chichu Art Museum (online booking required), then a visit to Lee Ufan Museum and Benesse House Museum along the way. This is followed by a walk through Benesse House park, scattered with sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle, along the picturesque coast and ends at the iconic Yellow Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama.
Art House Project is located in the port town Honmura. Among all the houses, Go’o Shrine with an optical glass staircase on the hill turned out to be one of my favorites (and it’s a real Shinto shrine). You might find a little surprise when entering the underground chamber in the darkness.
We hopped to Teshima from Naoshima by a high speed boat. We could have spent a whole day in the Teshima Art Museum just watching the somehow satisfying water drops moving on the simple concrete structure. After some contemplation, we had lunch at Shima Kitchen, where an artwork serves as a restaurant using fresh seasonal and local ingredients. We had ‘Shima Kitchen Set’ with salad, soup, fish, rice, and vegetables. Be sure to book in advance to reserve the local delicacy as the popular meals are often sold out on site.
Not to forget and the never again global tragedy in Hiroshima is tragically famous for having had one of history’s only two atomic bombs dropped on it at the end of World War II. It suffered terrible destruction and loss of life, yet in the years since the city has rejuvenated and is now an attractive and bustling regional business hub.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park commemorates the atomic bomb victims. The Atomic Bomb Dome – the preserved shell of a former exhibition hall – is the park’s most striking sight. The park also includes a cenotaph; the Rest House, a restored building that was damaged by the bomb; a children’s monument and other sculptures and memorials. There is also a museum with poignant exhibits of the damaged possessions of victims, including toys and clothing.
Across the Seto Inland Sea from Hiroshima is Matsuyama, the largest city on Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands. A mid-sized city that faces the sea, Matsuyama has two famous sights. Matsuyama Castle is a hilltop castle that was first built in the early 17th century. It is one of Japan’s 12 “original castles,” meaning it was not destroyed in World War II. However, it is not quite original since it was extensively rebuilt during the nineteenth century. Nevertheless, Matsuyama Castle has a sprawling design with turrets that provide great views of the hilltop and the surrounding cityscape.
Okayama is an unassuming city midway between Hiroshima and Osaka, but it boasts the Korakuen Garden, one of Japan’s topt landscape gardens. Built in 1687 by the local lord to host Japan’s ruling family, Korakuen was opened to the public in 1884. The garden is unique for its large sprawling lawns, which most Japanese gardens lack. Around the lawns are ponds, bamboo groves, plum and cherry trees, a small rice field, and even a crane aviary. Other sights to see include Okayama Castle, located next to Korakuen, and several museums.
Near Hiroshima is the holy island of Miyajima, or Itsukushima, which is filled with shrines that date back over 1,000 years. The oldest of these shrines, Itsukushima, features a giant floating torii gate, often seen in photos. The torii gate doesn’t really float; its pillars stand atop the seabed, something you can see up close at low tide.
Other interesting temples in the area include DaishÅ-in Temple and Senjokaku (Toyokuni Shrine), built in 1587 and featuring an open wooden hall. You can also hike up or take a cable car to 535m Mount Misen to enjoy splendid views of the sea. Nature lovers will enjoy a visit to Miyajima, where wild but gentle deer that wander freely.
I am not ashamed to admit that the quality and variety of food factors greatly into my overall impression of a place. As someone that seeks out groceries and restaurants that are as clean and close to the source as possible, I have high expectations when I travel. To be honest, I often find that international destinations actually do have less processed cuisine than use over here in America.
Shabu-shabu is also known as hot pot. It is when a large pot of lightly seasoned broth is served boiling with various raw vegetables, starches and meats. The meat is usually very thinly sliced beef to make for quick cooking. Not only does everything taste so flavorful, it is prepared exactly as you like it! And I love that it felt relatively light since no oil is used!
Kobe Beef has international acclaim but I have to say, it lives up to the hype. I enjoy a good steak every now and then, but the grass fed, tenderly aged kobe beef is a totally different dish.
While Takamatsu and the islands of the Seto Inland Sea offer a lot for visitors anytime, if you’re thinking about coming to the next Triennale, in 2022, it’s never too early to start planning and booking. A month out, accommodation was hard to come by, and I ended up having to move between mostly forgettable hotels three times — a pity in a country where hospitality is an art in itself. For the full experience, try to snag a room at the Benesse House Museum, a Tadao Ando–designed museum you can sleep in that’s set on a cliff overlooking the sea.
If you like udon, you’re in luck; if you don’t, get ready to fall in love. Don’t leave Kagawa without trying kamatama udon, a bowl of noodles with a raw egg, a dab of butter and a sprinkle of soy sauce. Think carbonara, but better. My favorite was at Udon Bakai Ichidai, just east of downtown Takamatsu.
For a break from udon, also in Takamatsu, join the line outside Ikkaku. Don’t let the short menu deter you — you’re here for chicken, grilled in a mouthwatering blend of spices and dripping with delicious grease. Make sure to order some onigiri (rice balls) to dip into that chicken grease once you’ve eaten every last shred of meat from the bone.
Hope this helped !!!
