Plovdiv

There are many cities in the world with a long history and rich culture. Usually, such cities offer a lot of things to do, many places to see, and a unique and special atmosphere to feel. Some of them are very famous, attracting millions of tourists every year. Others are hidden gems, not so well known, underrated and keeping a lot of secrets. One of them is Plovdiv- the second largest city in Bulgaria. 

There is something that makes Plovdiv really unique and special- it is recognized as the oldest living city in Europe, and the 6th oldest in the world! It means that when Plovdiv was founded, there was no Rome, no Athens, not any other famous historic cities in the continent, but maybe only some ancient settlements, which don’t exist anymore now.

It means also that Plovdiv has passed through many ages, civilizations, kingdoms, and empires, which remained their cultural traces in the city.

So, as you may assume, there must be a lot of things to see and do in Plovdiv. Not only things related to history, but also many other big and small attractions, related to art, music, entertainment, sport, leisure or food and drink. By the way, Bulgaria is a gorgeous country to by explored by backpacking.

The Ancient Theatre is Plovdiv’s most famous cultural landmark: a Roman amphitheatre in a dramatic position on a hill above the city. Visitors can enjoy performances by the Plovdiv Opera and its international guests while sitting on ancient marble seats looking over the whole city centre, with the Rhodope mountains in the distance – a breathtaking spectacle.

Kapana is now the creative heart of the city, a pedestrianised area full of shops, restaurants and galleries. In the 1990s it was a parking zone full of ruined houses. The transformation began in 2014, when 10 creative enterprises moved into the area, funded by the European Capital of Culture Foundation, and things have taken off from there. The best place to enjoy the city’s art scene is a space called Cu29. It combines a cafe and gallery and was established by artist Velizar Dimchev to promote emerging talent from Plovdiv. Afterwards grab a drink at Kapana’s coolest cocktail bar, Ginger Tale.

Very often cultural experiences in Plovdiv are an interesting mix of contemporary art and centuries-old architectural and cultural monuments. Established in 1995, the Ancient Bath was run by an independent art association for more than 20 years. The interior of the 16th-century Turkish bath is still intact, so art pieces are set in an authentic atmosphere with original stone walls and a stunning central dome. Currently the space is managed by the City Gallery and is the main venue for contemporary art exhibitions. It’s especially pleasant during the summer months and early September, when it remains cool in the Plovdiv heat.

And my personal favourite, Hilly Plovdiv old town is famed for its photogenic winding cobbled streets and beautifully preserved Ottoman-era townhouses. One of the most splendid is the Hindliyan House, whose Armenian merchant owner installed a rose-water fountain in the hayet, or main living space. This has recently been restored to its former, fragrant glory – the smell fills the room. Another favourite is Klianti House, which has beautifully painted ceilings and half-size rooms with tiny doors that were once used for storing the merchant’s wares. It feels like you have entered floor 7½ in Being John Malkovich.

When it comes to drinks, the dusty plain on which Plovdiv is built has a perfect climate for growing grapes, particularly red varieties, such as the rich, dark mavrud (apparently, it has been grown here since Thracian times). Bulgaria Wine Tours organises wine-tasting trips from a half-day to a week (from €80 for a half-day, reductions for groups of over three). Local vineyards of note include Dragomir, Villa Yustine and the organic Zagreus. If you don’t have time for a wine-tasting trip, another top producer, Bendida, has a bar and shop in the pedestrianised Kapana district. It’s run by the third generation of the Portev family, who have a vineyard a few miles outside the city in the foothills of the Rhodope mountains. The family tradition is in safe hands: daughter Elizabet is already producing award-winning rosés.

Food is another of Plovdiv’s strengths, and a new generation of restaurateurs are using local ingredients to turn out modern takes on traditional Bulgarian food. The hottest place in town is Pavaj (mains from £6). Its young owners, Raycho Markov and Madlen Pakratyan, are obsessive about their trade, from growing rare heritage tomatoes in Markov’s father’s garden in the mountains to travelling the Balkans in search of great rakia (fruit brandy). Ask nicely and they may offer you samples from the restaurant’s impressive collection. The food is simple and seasonal, from salads and meatballs to grilled sheep’s cheese and bread made to Raycho’s grandmother’s recipe. The pillow-soft rolls are cut in half, fried in clarified butter and sprinkled with a salt and spice mix. It may just be the most addictive thing you try in Bulgaria. Be sure to book ahead. Another good option is the recently opened Aylyakriya, (Kozhukarska 3), also in Kapana, that does smart takes on traditional dishes, such as kačamak (polenta), pork ribs and beans and an exceptional strawberry cheesecake (mains from around £6).

Like any great university town, Plovdiv is a gold mine for diners on a budget. Join the queue for late night bites at everyone’s favorite kebab stand, Alex’s. Not only is the food tasty, the scene is delicious for people watching.

If you like what you read, slpring and autumn are particularly lovely in Plovdiv. The city gets hot in July and August (average highs of 30C), but the city stays alive with festivals. This year there is a full programme of cultural events for the European Capital of Culture celebrations. Winters are cold (average highs between -2C and 7C), and snow is not uncommon. It’s fairly dry, with only 127mm of precipitation a year (London has 590mm, Manchester 930mm). In late September the city hosts trade fairs that push rates higher (2019: 23-28 September).

Plovdiv’s current buzz level is a sweet spot. There’s a bounty of culture, yet the pace remains deliciously slow compared to other European hotspots. A temperate climate and mountainous landscape add to the tranquil vibe; and as a bonus, pedestrian-only zones and ample green space make the city idea for exploring on foot.

Adding to the neighborhood’s texture is a focus on vibrant street art and murals. Even the local hardware store is covered with eye-popping design. Hip locals and visitors-in-the-know spill into the street filling outdoor cafes and becoming part of the artistic backdrop. The neighborhood makes for a prime spot to take in Plovdiv’s evolution and fully enjoy the party. Hope this helped !!