Cádiz

 One of Europe’s oldest cities is new again. At the tip of a peninsula thrust into the Atlantic, the city of Cádiz, a trading hub since 1100 B.C., has a vibe that’s more Havana than Madrid. A culinary renaissance is currently underway, with newcomers like Saja River and Codigo de Barra joining classics like El Faro. But the biggest gastronomic news lies across the bay in Puerto de Santa Maria, where Angel León’s Aponiente, which now has three Michelin stars, offers a lyric poem to seafood (plankton risotto). A second León restaurant, Alevante, in nearby Sancti Petri just received its first star. Twenty minutes inland, Jerez de la Frontera is a cradle of the fortified wines known as sherry, which are now on the hot list of sommeliers and the craft-cocktail crowd. Wineries include Díez-Mérito, Lustau and Bodegas Tradición, with its stellar collection of Spanish art. Beyond the cities, hilltop white villages like Vejer de la Frontera lure expats with a blend of hip luxury hotels and art by the likes of Olafur Eliasson at NMAC sculpture garden. Add a stretch of Atlantic shore, and the province of Cádiz ticks all the boxes.

You could write several weighty tomes about Cádiz and still fall short of nailing its essence. Cádiz is generally considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe, founded as Gadir by the Phoenicians in about 1100 BC. Now well into its fourth millennium, the ancient centre, surrounded almost entirely by water, is a romantic jumble of sinuous streets where Atlantic waves crash against eroded sea walls, cheerful taverns fry up fresh fish and salty beaches teem with sun-worshippers.

Playa de la Victoria and Playa de la Caleta are the two main beaches to visit. James Bond fans should head to Playa de la Caleta in the old town, as this is where Halle Berry famously emerged from the sea in Die Another Day.

Playa de la Victoria runs along the arm of Cadiz, below the historical peninsula. It’s popular with locals and consistently awarded Blue Flag status. There are plenty of restaurants, hotels and bars along the promenade too.

This historic port has a distinct Latin American vibe, which you can only fully appreciate by getting lost within the jumble of narrow streets. For roughly an hour’s walk, start at the main tourist information centre opposite the train station and head for Santa Domingo convent church, which was completed in 1666. Then, head to Plaza de la Catedral to see Cadiz Cathedral and the ruins of Arco de la Rosa. Next, head to Torre Tavira, the port’s main watchtower, and finally stroll north into the city centre and the main shopping district.

The best thing about Cádiz is you can stay in Hotel Convento Cadiz, which is a 17th-century convent in the centre of the old town that has been transformed into a boutique hotel. Retaining many of its original features, including vaulted ceilings and a beautiful interior courtyard, it’s a charming place to rest your head. Doubles from €58, room only.

For something ultra-modern, Parador de Cadiz, which is located next to Genoves Park, has beautiful ocean views, an outdoor swimming pool and spa. Rooms are bright and spacious and it’s only a five-minute walk to the beach. Doubles from €125, room only.

When it comes to food, you can’t go to Cadiz without trying some fried fish from one of the many freidurias. Join the queue at Freiduria Las Flores in Plaza Topete and order the mixed selection. It’s always busy but the food doesn’t disappoint.

Another essential stop is Cafe Royalty, which at the turn of the 20th century welcomed renowned writers, politicians and artists. After closing in the 1930s, its lavish decor was lovingly restored in 2008. Stop for breakfast or brunch and admire the intricate paintings while trying its speciality dish, Picatostes Gaditanos (deep fried bread).

When it comes to drink, Quilla Beach Bar sits above Playa de la Caleta and next to a 17th-century fortress, making it a great spot to sip on a sangria at sunset and enjoy the view. There’s a tapas menu if you’re hungry, too.

For something a little livelier, head to Casa Manteca, where the walls are covered in flamenco and bullfighting memorabilia, and every possible type of cured pork hangs above the bar.

Taberna La Manzanilla is the place to try a sherry or two. It’s a family-run tavern dating back to the 1930s and the walls are lined with different bottles of all sizes and ages. Ask for a manzanilla, a type of fino sherry, and pull up a pew.

Rest assured wherever you go, don't forget to tip 10 percent and when you get the time escape to the beach and head to the tranquillity of Genoves Park, a botanical garden between the old town and the Atlantic Ocean on the most western tip of Cadiz. The beautiful surroundings are a favourite with locals, who you’ll find taking a siesta under the shade of a tree or meeting for lunch in the small outdoor cafe. Open daily 8am-9pm. Hope this helped !!!